Machard knot

The machard knot is named after a French mountaineerer who introduced it. Its advantage is its use in both directions and easier untying when loaded in comparison both the above mentioned knots. It is used as a self-belaying knot when abseiling and in rescuing techniques. A rounded or flat sling is looped four or five times around a rope. The bites are clipped in a karabiner. The knot holds better if the bites are the shortest. The names of the French and Machard knot are often interchanged.